Recipe – Page 13 – Backdoor Hospitality

Chocolate Chip Cookie Olympics

I remember sitting on my parents bed watching the opening ceremony of the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona, Spain. I was eager in anticipation to watch the Women’s (really girls) gymnastic team. I would study their moves, watch with my jaw dropping at Dominque Dawes floor performance and wonder why my mom didn’t enlist me on my path toward gold medaldom (copyright Kamille) at age 2. However, once it hit the Atlanta Olympics, where the US Women clinched the gold title with Kerri Strug’s renowned performance on the vault, my interest in the Olympics had hit a standstill. Not only have they hit a standstill, but a divorce of the relationship. As I sat around a table of friends discussing how they couldn’t get enough of the Winter Olympics in Vancouver and how they’re a bit sleep deprived as a result, I hated to respond, because I was afraid of the obvious scorn. I piped in a bit sheepishly, “Yeah, well, I haven’t watched one ounce of Olympic coverage this year.” Looks were given. Them trying to be courteous without telling me of my ignorance.

So there you have it. I’m not an Olympic watcher. It honestly doesn’t interest me that much anymore. I understand why people get all excited about it (the various cultures & people represented, the nostalgia, etc, etc); but, really, it’s something I’m not crazy about. Instead, I have spent the past two days preparing for what I call the Chocolate Chip Cookie Olympics. Now this is something I get excited about. A chocolate chip cookie can bring people together or tear them apart. You understand. You walk into a coffee shop and they have those big chocolate chip cookies in the big glass container and you pause. You really want to eat one, but you wonder if they meet the criteria. You could possibly end up hashing out $1.50 – 2.00 on a waste of your daily caloric intake. I would wager to say that there is nothing quite as disappointing as biting into what looks like the promise land flowing of chocolate chips & butter to find a C.C.C. disguised as a dry sand-like substance floating around your mouth. We’ve all been there. So I set out to make three different chocolate chip cookie recipes, where I would present them to my tasters and they would judge & award gold, silver, & bronze.

Superlative Chocolate Chip Cookies (Cooks Illustrated)

I first made these Superlative Chocolate Chip Cookies from Cooks Illustrated in late summer (click on the above picture and it will take you there). These cookies probably have one of the most superb flavor profiles you’ll find. I chose this recipe, because it is my favorite chocolate chip recipe. The recipe calls for chocolate chips & toasted pecans. There are chocolate chip recipes masquerading as “chocolate chip cookies,” but they’re not true to the definition. The ones that include oats, dried fruit, nut butters, coconut, etc. They’re good for sure, but for the sake of all things being equal. I was on the search of a true chocolate chip cookie, no strings attached. So for this round, I took out the toasted pecans to make it equal among the other two candidates.

The other two contestants were the classic N.Y. Times chocolate chip cookie & a recipe claimed as the best chocolate chip cookie from ‘Not Without Salt‘ blog. A word why these two were chosen. My friend Paige loves to bake equally as much and I would say enjoys food more than I do (that’s a compliment by the way). She has mentioned that these are her family’s chocolate chip cookie of choice. After I posted on the Superlative C.C.C., she commented that her & her husband Stephen still found their aged cookie to be better. I still never made them. Then, a couple days ago, a friend Julie emailed me about the best cookies she ever tasted with sea salt on top. Guess which cookie she was talking about? Yup! N.Y. Times C.C.C. So they were enlisted immediately. And the last cookie was enlisted because Ashley Rodriguez of Not Without Salt was the former Pastry Chef of Ciao Thyme in Bellingham. I trusted the head chef Matio Gillis’ opinion of Ashley, so when she said her’s were the best, I thought, “heck, I need to try them.” And so goes the C.C.C. Olympics.

I made each of the cookies warm to order, so all of the tasters ate them warm. I however, didn’t make them equal in using the same type of chocolate for each, which caused a bit of discrepancy in the final tasting (but I did take that into account for the final tallying). I will go through each cookie stating the Pros & Cons.

Cooks Illustrated Cookie

Pros: Tasters said these had the best flavor of the three. They noted, “buttery, salty, caramel & toffee, nutty…tastes like a blondie in cookie form…chewy, with crisp edges.” These cookies don’t need to sit in the fridge for 24 to 36 hours to get those flavors, like the N.Y. Times cookie. They don’t require a mixer, just a whisk.

Cons: Texture didn’t win as big on these. Although they were chewy, they lacked the combination of soft, chewy that one taster found she liked in the “Subway Chocolate Chip Cookie.” Upon sitting at room temperature, these cookies tend to dry out a bit faster. One taster said that he didn’t care for the chocolate in these cookies, compared to the N.Y.Times one. However, I did use different chocolate chips in both, so had I used the same kind, the outcome could have been different. Doesn’t make as many cookies as the other recipes.

Technique: The caramel, toffee, nutty taste comes from melting the butter and toasting it; rather, than the typical creaming method. By melting the butter, you’re taking out some of the liquid found in the solidified butter and lends to a chewier cookie. Also, by using one egg & one egg yolk, you create more chew and take away the protein found in the extra white, which cuts back the dryness factor. I chilled this dough for 12 hours in the fridge and measured all the ingredients; as well as, measuring each cookie to 3 1/2 ounces to bake.

NY Times Cookie

Pros: The tasters were unanimous about loving the texture on this cookie. As one taster mentioned sheepishly, “It tastes like, don’t judge me, but like the Subway cookies, a bit of chew, softness, chocolate chunk, and melds together well.” Another taster said, “as a chocolate chip cookie purist, this one wins for me. This is what I think of when you say Chocolate Chip Cookie.” For me, I did two tastings. One at 36 hours of aging the dough and another at 41 hours, and I would say that this cookie tasted better the second time. The first tasting I didn’t taste strong notes of toffee, caramel, or butterscotch like the article said it would have at 36 hours. However, I did taste it at the 41 hour mark. They still have softness after sitting on the counter (wrapped up) 24 hours later.

Cons: They take 36 hours in the fridge before they’re ready. And if you want more depth of flavor, leave them in there up to 72 hours (reminded me of how long a baby can stay in the womb once the mama’s water breaks–weird, huh?). The flavor wasn’t as stand out as the Cooks Illustrated.

Technique: What makes these cookies stand out is letting them sit in the fridge for up to 36 hours before baking them. And you sprinkle sea salt on top to let the flavors pop. By letting the dough age, you’re allowing the proteins in the flour meld with the butter, sugar & salt to create a broader flavor profile. You also use two different flours (cake flour & bread flour), which create a wonderful marriage in the chemistry arena of the baking process. Cake flour with low proteins doesn’t suck up liquid like bread flour; rather, cake flour’s low protein creates a softer, paler end product along with the protein creating steam with the liquids. Bread flour with it’s higher protein browns faster and sucks up the liquid. So if you only used cake flour, you would have a cakey cookie, lacking any chewiness or a bit of a crust. However, if you only used bread flour, you would end up with a very brown, crisp cookie. Hence the perfect marriage. I also used 60% & 70% cacao, along with some milk chocolate chunks in this dough.

Not Without Salt Cookie

Pros: This was the least loved. Tasters said it was fine, and a nice fall back option. The dough was a bit above average (C+). The sprinkling of sea salt added that pop flavor. I could note a bit uniqueness in the crust, which might be attributed to the use of Turbinado sugar. I had a bit of caramel tones.

Cons: Too much chocolate (the recipe called for quite a bit), lacked anything special about it. It was okay, but not the best.

Technique: I went ahead and let this one sit in the fridge for 36 hours too, but it never aged as well as the N.Y. Times cookie. If I were to make these again, I wouldn’t use as much chocolate as the recipe called for, because it ended up feeling like you were eating chocolate with some cookie, not the other way around. Sprinkling Fleur de Sal on top before baking lends something extraordinary to even the most ordinary chocolate chip doughs.

Results: The tasters were not unanimous in their decisions. One said her favorite was the Cooks Illustrated. Three other tasters said the N.Y. Times one was their favorite. And as one taster said, “Although the flavor of the C.I. cookie is superior to the N.Y. Times one, the N.Y. Times has great texture and slightly inferior flavor, but makes it a better cookie since it meets both standards–regardless if the flavor isn’t as superior.”

So if you have time on your hand (41 hours to 72 hours), make the N.Y. Times cookies. However, if you want warm cookies right now, make the Cooks Illustrated. The comparison between the two reminds me of Michael Phelp’s Miracle finish. So you be the judge and make both–let me know what you think.

Overall Scores:

Gold to N.Y. Times

Silver to Cooks Illustrated

Bronze to Not Without Salt

Update (2/28/2010): I did not use the feves talked about in the N.Y. Times recipe. Instead, I bought a pound of chocolate from Trader Joe’s (70%) and cut it into smaller chunks with a serrated knife. I did the same with some milk chocolate I have in bulk. You could use packaged chocolate chunks as well. I feel like the chocolate chip texture doesn’t hit the spot as well as chunk form.

Chocolate Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting

When I was in junior high, our church youth group would have overnighters occasionally on the Sunday nights when we didn’t have school on Monday. There were those kids who would never come to the overnighter, because they are the ones who “couldn’t cut it (Ben would have been one of those).” In retrospect, they were the smart ones who knew at a young age what their body could and couldn’t take. However, in our juvenile setback, we saw it not only as our duty, but our obligation to stick it to the man by experiencing the world from dusk to dawn.

Our ammunition was nothing less than your basic food groups–High Fructose Corn Syrup disguised as Dr. Pepper, Monosodium Glutamate disguised as Nacho Cheese Doritos, transfats disguised as Grease cloying Pizza & Unrefined sugar disguised as any & all candy. And what happens when you eat those basic food groups over the course of 10 hours? You crash and burn my friend, crash and burn. It wasn’t until we were driving home at 6:00 am with the Arizona sun burning a hole in my retinas, that I began to wonder if a night-time of no sleep, crap food, and a bit more crap food was worth it? My stomach was hungry for real food, but my body was beyond tired. I felt like a two-year old at the one o’clock hour being pushed around the mall with my mom saying, “one more store honey.” That morning my body trumped my stomach and slowly walked down the hall, with random clothes & stuff dropping the floor like Hansel & Gretel walking toward their candy house ecstasy.

It wasn’t until around 12:30 when I arose from my zombie induced coma to meander towards the wafting smell of the kitchen. My mom was making some food for the potluck that evening and all I can say is that I’ve never tasted anything as good as chili mac at a moment like that, nor the chocolate cookie with peanut butter chips. I ate a bit to rid my stomach from eating itself and went back to bed. When I finally woke up for the day, I came back to the kitchen to find that the cookies weren’t just an illusion, but were actually really good cookies that I later ate a couple more. And as I tasted these chocolate cupcakes with peanut butter frosting, I can’t help but think of those cookies on the Memorial day back in the 90s. I remember grabbing a glass of cold milk to compliment the obvious marriage of chocolate & peanut butter. And for these cupcakes, I recommend the same. Just leave the overnighters to those crazy middle & high schoolers.

Chocolate Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting (printable recipe)

This recipe is adapted from Barefoot Contessa at Home. One thing about Ina Garten’s recipes is she always uses extra-large eggs, which no one ever has in their home. So I always use large. I used two large as an equal exchange in this recipe. However, if there were three or more extra-large, then I would increase the large eggs to equal it out. And you should definitely have a glass of milk when eating these cupcakes.

Ingredients

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk, shaken, at room temperature
1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature
2 tablespoons instant espresso (follow directions) or brewed coffee
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup good cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Kathleen’s Peanut Butter Icing, recipe follows

Directions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line cupcake pans with paper liners.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and 2 sugars on high speed until light and fluffy, approximately 5 minutes. Lower the speed to medium, add the eggs 1 at a time, then add the vanilla and mix well. In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, and instant espresso. In another bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. On low-speed, add the buttermilk mixture and the flour mixture alternately in thirds to the mixer bowl, beginning with the buttermilk mixture and ending with the flour mixture. Mix only until blended. Fold the batter with a rubber spatula to be sure it’s completely blended.

Divide the batter among the cupcake pans (1 rounded standard ice cream scoop per cup is the right amount). Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes, remove from the pans, and allow to cool completely before frosting.

Frost each cupcake with Peanut Butter Icing. Sprinkle with some sea salt.

Kathleen’s Peanut Butter Icing:

1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 cup crunchy peanut butter
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup heavy cream

Place the confectioners’ sugar, peanut butter, butter, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on medium-low speed until creamy, scraping down the bowl with a rubber spatula as you work. Add the cream and beat on high speed until the mixture is light and smooth.

Almond Brown Sugar Pound Cake

Ben and I got to get away this weekend for the first time since before Tayers was born (August 2008 last nights away). It was wonderful, absolutely wonderful. If you’re a mother, can I just say that you need time away. Your kids will be fine. In fact, they’ll be the better for it. Heck, you both will be the better for it. And most likely, your husband has been wanting to get away with just you for quite some time. If you’re a single mom, then enlist someone’s help to give yourself extra alone time, because I commend your hard work & efforts doing this job alone. All in all–get away, don’t think twice, just do it. It will give you more to give back.

It was also over a year ago, with me 7 months pregnant, baking every single dessert for my dear friends (Tina & Jason) wedding. I had the privilege of making Jason his favorite dessert (Carrot Cake) and he would echo my praises when I say, “it is pretty much the best carrot cake EVER!” Then, for Tina as the gluten-intolerant gal that she is, I made chocolate truffle cakes with homemade raspberry puree. Her all-time combo is chocolate & raspberry. Well, after the day was over, I told Ben to remind me to NEVER do that while I was that pregnant again–no matter who is asking. But, lucky for me, I was blessed with a gift certificate to a local spa in town from my dessert making at 7 months effort. So on Saturday I finally used it (only about 17 months later) for my 90 minute Swedish massage. Heavenly!

Tayers chillin' with her papa (she has the charm factor going strong)

It even got me reflecting about my last massage (I was pregnant) and how maybe I’m ready for another baby. Well, let’s stop right there, because A. this will not be the place I will first be discussing such BIG ideas and B. I think the masseuse hit some pressure points leading to romantic, idealism babyland. Mental note: Kamille, enjoy your first over night away with your husband without thinking about adding more insanity quite yet.

We did enjoy our time together. Our room overlooked the water, we went on walks, ate some classical French food (some I will most likely not eat again), & had adult conversation without interruptions. We also had this Portugese Almond Cake with Apricot Compote. I enjoyed it, as I enjoy most anything with almonds. It reminded me of this Almond Cream Cheese Pound Cake I made a while back, but haven’t shared it with you yet. And this seems as good as any.

Brown Sugar! and Almond Pound Cake (printable recipe)

This cake is adapted from Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey. I made this pound cake, then whipped up some heavy cream for whipped cream and used my orange cardamom caramel to make an Almond Orange Cardamom Caramel Trifle. Down right dangerous, but I play high stakes. Also, go to Trader Joe’s to purchase Almond Meal for a cheaper price. I sifted my almond meal to separate the ground skin from the almond meat.

Ingredients

2 cups bleached all-purpose flour, sifted then measured
1 ¼ cups ground almond meal or almond flour
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 Tb vanilla extract
1 tsp pure almond extract
6 large eggs, room temperature

Directions:

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 325 F. Spray two 8 ½ by 4 ½ inch loaf pans with nonstick cooking spray.

In a bowl, sift together the flour, almond meal, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In a bowl of an electric mixer, set on medium speed, beat butter and cream cheese together until smooth and creamy (3 minutes). Gradually beat in the brown sugar and confectioner’s sugar and continue beating until pale and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla and almond extracts.

Add the eggs to the butter mixture one at a time, beating well after each addition. Fold the flour and almond mixture into the batter by hand, using a rubber spatula or large balloon whisk, until no traces of flour remain.

Spoon the batter evenly among the two loaf pans. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 75 to 90 minutes.

Transfer the cake to a wire rack. Let cool for 5 minutes before unmolding onto the rack. Let cool completely on wire rack. The cake can be eaten, wrapped well in plastic & stored at room temperature for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 1 month.

sorry about the horrible picture, but the sun had gone down

Mascarpone Chocolate Cheesecakes

I was realizing how most of the food I post is under the dessert or baked goods category. It made me think, “Uh maybe I need to start incorporating some vegetable side dishes, meats or beans, or something aside from dessert.” But, I soon came back to Kamille reality and the truth is…I don’t enjoy cooking nearly as much as baking. It’s not that cooking isn’t fun, but it comes in waves in my house. I really do like it, but right now in the state of affairs, cooking is a job that needs to get checked off the list. Hence, resulting in mindless ‘make the doughnuts‘ fashion when it comes to cooking a meal. It’s a chore and I’m lacking creativity to put forth anything tantalizing enough to write about (I feel like I’m always making eggs as a result). Don’t worry, the pizzazz will come back soon.

However, in the meantime, I’ve been putting forth my energy into baking. Whether it’s homemade bread (a loaf is sitting on the counter right now), making healthier snacks for my family, or finally making those pecan bars I’ve been wanting to make for well over a year and a half (they required 2 lbs of pecans–you can see why I didn’t take the plunge). And as with most culinary tasks there are those which fall under the lengthy & advanced cook definition, lengthy & intermediate and easy (because anything that is lengthy almost always never falls under the easy). Although I enjoy the lengthy challenge, there are times when easy yet tasty (without anything from a box) is desperately needed. So I present you with these Mascarpone Chocolate Cheesecakes.

I think this took me a total of 50 minutes (this didn’t include the chill time in the fridge). The recipe says they should chill for 4 hours, but really, I think it’s all a matter of preference. You could just as easily let them cool to room temperature then grab a spoon, which the result would be creamy billows melting across your mouth. However, if you chill them you will get the more firm taste one is accustomed to when eating cheesecake (personally I prefer more billowy and less dense). I have also realized that what may come as second nature to me is what scares most people out of the kitchen. So let me give you some pointers on making cheesecake (and specifically these cheesecakes).

When recipes call for heating up heavy cream to which you will add chopped chocolate (which is called a ganache–it’s what is used to make truffles), you should chop it up. However, in this instance, it’s okay if the chocolate is in bigger chunks, because the chocolate to cream ratio is 4:1, so you have more time to stir the cream with chocolate, in order for the chocolate to melt.
Always cool down the chocolate mixture or any hot cream mixture when adding to eggs. That is unless you want scrambled eggs hidden within. If you don’t feel like eating breakfast with your dessert, resist the temptation thinking warm is equivalent to room temperature.
Always, Always, Always (was that enough always?) use a bain marie when making cheesecakes or baked custards. A bain marie is a hot water bath. You take your cheesecake pan or ramekins with the uncooked mixture inside and place it in a roasting pan, 9×13 pan or any pan with sides taller than the ramekins, springform, or cake pan. You will need to boil water in your kettle or get very hot water from your tap. Place your ramekins inside a rectangular pan and set it on the rack in the oven. Now gently pour the water into the rectangular pan without splashing any water on the cheesecake, until the water reaches the middle part of the outside of the ramekins.
Bain Marie: By baking your cheesecake in a bain marie, you are relying on the hot water to help with the baking process, not just the dry heat from the oven. This method will result in a creamier cheesecake and not a dry, dense one. **if you’re making a big cheesecake, you will need to wrap the bottom with heavy duty aluminum foil, so the water doesn’t seep through the springform pan.**
Never open the oven door while baking cheesecakes. Don’t be tempted to open it (I know we all think by opening it the cooking will somehow be closer to being done). By opening the door you alter the temperature, which causes those cracks in the middle of cheesecakes.
If your making a big cheesecake, and the time is done. Turn off the heat, but leave cheesecake in the oven with door closed for an additional hour.
Remove the cheesecake from the water and let it cool on a rack to room temperature.

Mascarpone Chocolate Cheesecakes (printable recipe)

This is another recipe adapted from my Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey book. If I haven’t spoken of its praises enough, then this recipe is another reason why you should stop stalling and go get it. If you’re not up for it, stick with me and I’ll most likely be pulling a few dozen more of it. What I like about these is they are less finicky than your typical cheesecake, don’t require as much cream cheese, and are individual servings. Oh yeah & they’re crustless…so gluten & wheat sensitive can indulge.

Ingredients:

1 cup heavy cream
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (see note above)
8 ounces mascarpone cheese (you can find some for a cheaper price at Trader Joe’s)
1/4 cup sugar (okay, so seriously, I don’t think this really needs sugar–I say you could do 2 Tb and be fine)
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp pure vanilla extract (At Costco they sell gluten-free pure vanilla extract for a big amount & good price)
pinch of salt
1 Tb rum, brandy or Grand Marnier (optional)
Top with whipped cream, sliced strawberries, raspberries or orange segments.
Boiling water for bain Marie

Directions:

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 325.
In a saucepan, bring the cream to a simmer over medium heat. Remove it from the heat once it starts to boil. Add the chopped chocolate and whisk till all the chocolate is melted. Let it come to room temperature.
In a medium bowl, whisk or stir together mascarpone & sugar till creamy. Add eggs one at a time, whisking after each addition until thoroughly incorporated. Add the vanilla, salt & liquor of choice.
Pour the cooled chocolate mixture into the mascarpone cheese mixture and whisk till smooth.
Put eight 4-ounce custard cups, ramekins or small ovenproof coffee cups in an empty 9×13 pan or roasting pan. Divide the cheesecake mixture evenly among the ramekins.
Put the baking dish in the oven and gently pour the hot water into the pan (see notes above on bain marie). Cover with aluminum foil.
Bake until the tops of the cheesecake appear solid but jiggle slightly when shaken, 30 minutes. The perfect consistency is soft, but not liquid. Transfer the pots from the baking sheet to a wire rack. Let them come to room temperature. Then, cover each pot with plastic wrap and place in fridge for at least 4 hours. Enjoy!

Homemade Graham Cracker Sandwich Cookies

I feel like there are definitely those that fall under the LOVE graham cracker category. I’m in the other camp, the “meh” camp. I can recall old roommates getting their sugar craving quenched by putting frosting on graham crackers. If there are graham crackers in our home, Ben will spread peanut butter on them. As for me, I would rather have nothing. The boxed graham crackers tend to have that mass produced taste and lacking in the honey factor (even though the box says ‘Honey Graham’).

So if you’re in the “LOVE” category, you need to make these and your admiration will increase exponentially, making you wonder what you were doing having a love affair with such second rate calories. If you’re in the “Meh” category, then this might be the start to a “beautiful friendship.” When you bite into these gems, you taste honey, then cinnamon, then a bit of nuttiness from the whole wheat, the richness of the butter with the bit of salt tying it altogether. That’s the graham without the frosting, so by adding the frosting it sends you over the top. Wow your family or guests with these nostalgic childhood snacks and I guarantee that in this instance–simplicity wins out.

Homemade Graham Cracker Sandwich Cookies

(printable recipe)

This recipe is adapted from the cookbook, The Grand Central Baking Book, which is a bakery located in Seattle, WA & Portland, OR. The recipe calls to bake 15-20 minutes, but I found that a 15 minute baking time produces a softer graham (not as golden, but still wonderful). So start at 15 and add more time if you want them more crispy.

Graham Cracker Ingredients

2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour, unbleached
1/2 cup (2.5 ounces) whole wheat flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 cup (8 ounces, or 2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup (1.75 ounces) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (1.75 ounces) packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup (3 ounces) honey

Frosting Ingredients

1/2 cup (4 ounces or 1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups (8 ounces) powdered sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 Tb heavy cream, 1/2 & 1/2, or whole milk

Directions

Combine the dry ingredients: Measure the flours, baking soda, salt & cinnamon into a bowl and whisk to combine.
Cream the butter, sugar, and honey: Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, both sugars & honey on medium speed for 3 – 5 minutes until light in color and fluffy. Stop the mixer and scrap the sides and bottom of bowl.
Add the dry ingredients and chill the dough: With the mixer on low speed, add the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour or up to 3 days.
Shape the cookies: Preheat the oven to 350. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Lightly dust a work surface with flour and coat a rolling pin with additional flour. Roll out the dough to 1/8 inch thickness, then use a sharp chef’s knife to cut the dough into rectangles (however large or small you of rectangles you would like, I varied mine between 3×5 and 2×3). Prick the dough with a fork. Place the rectangles about 1 inch apart on the parchment lined baking sheet.
Bake: Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through the baking time. The cookies should be dry, firm to the touch, and deep golden brown. Let them cool completely on the baking sheets.
Make the frosting: Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, mix the butter and powdered sugar on low speed until well blended, then increase to medium speed and beat for 3 minutes. Add the vanilla and 2 Tb cream, and continue to beat on medium speed for 1 minute.
Fill & assemble the sandwich cookies: Find matching size graham crackers and using an offset spatula (or butter knife) to spread a layer of frosting on the inverted graham cracker. Put enough frosting to fill the middle and place the other graham cracker on top squeezing slightly until the frosting spreads to the edges.

New Beginnings & Chockful Blondies

Thursday morning is playgroup morning in our house. It typically goes like this,

7:00: Have Sweetpea go to the bathroom, change Tayers diaper, and try to allow Sweetpea the freedom a three year old needs in their independence of “I wanna do it.”
7:30: (takes that long because of the independence & finally asking for help) Go downstairs get milk for both girls, pick up Tayers because she needs her morning snuggles, start on breakfast.
7:45: Girls are at the table eating and I’m trying to make a cup of coffee.
8:15-8:30: We’re finally done with breakfast and clean up ensues.
8:45: change Tayers again and debate whether she will only have one nap that day, if two, hurry and put her to bed
9:00-9:15: clean up dishes, tell Sweetpea that I need a shower while she stays on the main floor dancing around imagining her life if she lived in Strawberryland.
9:45: I’m ready, but trying to get the girls ready (once again dependent upon Tayers nap). Get snacks together
10:15: somehow between 9:30 and 10:15 I have no idea where 45 minutes went, so I give into any expectation of getting to playgroup at 10:00.
10:20ish: We finally make it to playgroup

That’s typical Thursday morning; however, Tayers slept much longer and I was very casual & laid back letting go of any expectation I had on myself or my girls. And although we were an hour late upon arrival, I find that I am a better mama for it. So as we were pulling out onto the main road around 11:00 I was reflecting upon my day yesterday. If you were to have called me or unexpectedly dropped by for a visit around 1:00 yesterday, I would have met you in tears. It was one of those afternoons where I was finding myself to be short with my girls, missing connection times with my oldest, and feeling altogether crummy. The feeling which crept up was “these girls would be better off without me.” Of course, I know that’s not true, but we have these days.

All I could see were my failures, my areas of weakness and everything I lacked. It’s hard to get over these moments, because even though I know I’m forgiven when I ask for it–it still doesn’t erase guilt right away. But this morning pulling out onto the main road I was thinking about what I had read about a particular mother. She would normally overreact to her three and a half year old’s behavior or shenanigans, but she was implementing different behavior patterns for herself, choosing to act and not react and to live with the end in mind. This made me realize that there are many times when I have overreacted as a mama and I can recall many instances I’m not proud of, but it doesn’t relegate me to being that person forever. As it says in the Bible, “his mercies are new every morning.” That’s relieving for me to not just know, but realize it and apply it.

Mothering is not for the faint of heart and it is probably the most self-realization journeys I will ever walk on. If you’re in this parenting boat, your past doesn’t dictate your future, even if you feel like the mess is too huge. If you’re marriage is weathering hard storms, your past doesn’t dictate your future, even if you feel like the mess is too huge. If you’re old & gray and you don’t know if it’s even worth it, your past doesn’t dictate your future, even if you feel like the mess is too huge. No matter where you are on life’s journey, your past doesn’t dictate your future, because there is always time for a new beginning.

If you’re new beginning is getting your health life back on track, then maybe stop reading right now and go to a different site. Because this chock full blondie is a different beginning, but one that will remind you that life is sane (in that small window of devouring them).

Chock Full Blondies (printable recipe)

Recipe is adapted from Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey. You can add different nuts. The original recipe said to bake it for 30-35 minutes, but it took a lot longer than 35 minutes. It was more like 45 on my oven and I have an oven thermometer. When using a toothpick, insert it in the middle and pull it out. If there are a couple crumbs left–that’s perfect. You basically don’t want to pull out a toothpick with wet batter on it.

Ingredients

3 cups dark brown sugar

1 cup (8 oz) unsalted butter

4 eggs, room temperature

1 Tb vanilla extract

1 tsp salt

2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 baking soda

1 1/2 cups almonds, toasted & coarsely chopped

1 cup white chocolate chips

1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1 cup sweetened flaked coconut

4 Heath or Skor bars, broken into bite-sized pieces OR a 14-oz bag of mini-heath bars

Preheat oven to 350. Spray a 9×13 inch pan with nonstick spray. Melt butter with brown sugar over medium heat in a heavy bottom pan. Stirring occasionally until butter is melted. Once it’s melted, let it gently bubble for about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.
In a large bowl, combine eggs, vanilla & salt whisking them altogether and set aside. In small bowl, combine flour & baking soda together.
Once the sugar & butter mixture is cooled, add it to the egg mixture and combine. Add the flour mixture to the wet and combine till all the flour has been thoroughly mixed in. Add all the nuts & bolts (white chocolate chips, chocolate chips, almonds, broken toffee bars, & coconut). Stir till combined.
Pour into greased pan and cook for 40-50 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out relatively clean. Cool on a wire rack and cut into however big slices you would like.

Crafting Hospitality

Last night as I was pulling the pork apart, I was reminded of my soon to be brother-in-law’s art show back in August. You see, if you’ve ever met Bob without a long sleeve shirt on or a jacket, you are sure to notice the tatoo of a pig on his forearm. It’s quite catching and then a conversation into the land of pork and all things so wonderful around this magnificent of animals comes protruding forth. Bob is marrying my sister-in-law Amber(Ben’s sister) and I can wholeheartedly say how much we all love him and are very thankful he is joining the family. Not only can we talk food shop, but he knows a thing or two about pottery & ceramics.

It was in August that he had his senior project (via art show)/presentation, where he spoke briefly about his ceramic creations, we toured his exhibit, we ate his pulled pork (that he smoked), drank bourbon & whiskey, and had a wonderful time in doing it. What struck me most (that I have yet to encapsulate until now) on that idyllic Seattle summer evening was what Bob spoke about in regards to his work. He said (paraphrasing) that he viewed his pottery as a form of hospitality. He chooses to create cups, bowls, decanters–some of the more practical items with clay, in order to serve the food he loves (pulled pork, bourbon, waffles for post-Christmas breakfast) for people he loves.

It is through his passion of creating, molding, glazing & firing clay with his hands that he is creating unique forms of hospitality. We as the recipients get a taste of appreciation eating and drinking off these tangible pottery pieces. Bob delivers a bit of his passion & hard work (all forms of hospitable acts) to us. So if you’re one of those people wondering “how in the world can I deliver a bit of hospitality?” I would suggest making a special meal that took a bit more time for your family or guests, pulling out the nicer dinnerware just because, or even lighting candles to communicate that we can intertwine ordinary & sacred time together. Seeing that we take the time to give attention to details occasionally throughout our week.

So, if you’re up for it…you could make this indoor pulled pork. I’m telling you right now that it takes time, but the end result is full reward. When I was pregnant with my youngest I got addicted to pulled pork sandwiches. And ya know that craving has yet to leave my system and I have yet to find a place in Bellingham that satisfies what I’m looking for. However, after eating this last night, I feel like I’ve found it. I was in line at the grocery store and I saw the Cooks Illustrated magazine with the words ‘Indoor Pulled Pork’ and knew I had to buy it, because I don’t have a smoker and C.I. rarely fails me. Well, after a total of 6 1/2 to 7 hours I finally got rewarded for my hard work (more like my patience). This would fall under the category of a comfort yet special dinner with a touch of Southern goodness.

Indoor Pulled Pork (printable recipe)

I think pulled pork topped with slaw is not only quintessential, but essential. These two have a symbiotic relationship, so don’t forget to top it with slaw. I used pork shoulder rather than pork butt and chose the Lexington Vinegar Sauce mainly because I had all the ingredients for it versus the other two options. I would wager to say that you wouldn’t be able to tell that this was cooked without the use of a smoker.

Pork:

1 cup plus 2 tsp salt
1/2 cup plus 2 Tb sugar
3 Tb plus 2 tsp liquid smoke
1 boneless pork butt (5 lbs), cut in half horizontally or pork shoulder strips
1/4 cup yellow mustard
2 Tb ground black pepper
2 Tb smoked paprika
1 tsp cayenne pepper

Lexington Vinegar Barbecue Sauce

1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup ketchup
1/2 cup water
1 Tb sugar
3/4 tsp salt
3/4 tsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp ground black pepper

FOR THE PORK: Dissolve 1 cup salt, 1/2 cup sugar, and 3 tablespoons liquid smoke in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge pork in brine, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours.
While the pork brines, combine mustard and remaining 2 teaspoons liquid smoke in small bowl; set aside. Combine black pepper, paprika, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, remaining 2 teaspoons salt, and cayenne in second small bowl; set aside. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.
Remove pork from brine and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Rub mustard mixture over entire surface of each piece of pork. Sprinkle entire surface of each piece with spice mixture. Place pork on wire rack set inside foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Place piece of parchment paper over pork, then cover with sheet of aluminum foil, sealing edges to prevent moisture from escaping. Roast pork for 3 hours.
Remove pork from oven; remove and discard foil and parchment. Carefully pour off liquid in bottom of baking sheet into a fat separator (or a big enough bowl and use a baster to get the liquid below the fat) and reserve for sauce. Return pork to oven and cook, uncovered, until well browned, tender, and internal temperature registers 200 degrees on instant-read thermometer, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer pork to serving dish, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
FOR THE SAUCE: While pork rests, pour 1/2 cup of defatted cooking liquid from fat separator (or from baster) into medium bowl; whisk into sauce ingredients.
Shred pork either with your hands or with two forks into bite-sized pieces. Toss with sauce and serve on warm rolls topped with coleslaw.

Making the Lexington Vinegar Barbecue Sauce: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl with 1/2 cup of defatted cooking liquid and whisk to combine.

Easy Coleslaw:

1/2 head of cabbage, thinly sliced with chef knife

1 peeled carrot, grated

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/8 cup (2 Tb) buttermilk

2-3 Tb honey

1 Tb dijon mustard

splash of apple cider vinegar, regular vinegar, or lemon (basically you need an acid)

salt to taste

Mix all the dressing ingredients together and taste. If it tastes too much like mayo, then add a bit more honey, vinegar & salt. Dump on the sliced cabbage and grated carrot and toss.

Banana Macadamia Praline Scones

This morning I woke up at 6:00 after going to bed rather late, because I wanted to bring some scones to the worship team I’m blessed to be apart of and where I would be joining at 7:30 this morning (as well as leave some warm, freshly baked scones for my little family). I love scones for their multifaceted ability and what I might deem as “kitchen sink baking.” And let me tell you that the scones I made were fantastic with chopped up apples, toasted walnuts, dried cranberries, buttermilk, & making use of whole wheat flour. However, the sun wasn’t out by the time these came out of the oven and honestly, I needed to get going, so no time for a photo and no recipe for them.

Lucky for you is that I made a different scone last weekend, which were the essence of freshly baked banana bread, except in scone form (does it get any better on a lazy Saturday morning?). I didn’t get to linger in the aroma of these too long after pulling them out of the oven, because they quickly got devoured by my carbohydrate frenzied daughters.

A bit of a transition from scones to some of what I’ve been reflecting on this week. There’s really no easy transition, but an abrupt bump in the road and steering toward another course sometimes. This would be one of those times. I have to share that a week ago I went to bed thinking I would delete this blog, cut my losses and call it a good run. I’ve been discouraged in writing posts, looking at other people’s blogs, and then coming back to evangitality asking myself, “What in the world am I doing with this blog?” And further asking, “does anyone even read this?…why am I writing?…and who am I writing for?”

And being a thin-skinned, sensitive type, I tend to read into things that aren’t there and over analyze and stop being who I’m designed to be and try to be something I’m not (leading to further insecurities). So as I was about to hastily pull the plug, a dear friend sent a message to me on Facebook about this blog. And ya know what, it wasn’t anything profound or big, but a simple reminder for me to take a step back and reflect. I needed to reflect upon what inspired me in the first place to start this evangitality blog thing (the name which some people cannot pronounce) and get back to that.

So I’ve spent a week not feeling any need to put up a new post, but simply be. After a conversation with Ben (and many with God after that), he mentioned how I have to ask myself what I want to convey. He said, “do you want it to become a food blog? What’s your mission with it?” Well, I haven’t completely narrowed it down; however, I do know that I’ve felt like I’ve jumped around and haven’t always stayed on track. What I have figured out is that I am not and never was intending this to solely be a food blog. There about a zillion food blogs out there and although I absolutely love baking & cooking–I’m not wanting to sign up for being one in a zillion at this point (stubborn maybe). However, I will still be posting recipes, because it’s a means of hospitality, but I don’t want to limit this to simply food posts.

But I do want this blog to be centered around hospitality, exploring the theoretical aspects of it and practical, sharing stories from my experience and stories of other people who serve as inspirations to further walk this road of evangitality. I hope you will join me and give me feedback along the way. I hope you will share your stories of walking out evangitality or people who have walked before or alongside you in these footsteps. And here’s what evangitality is about

Evangitality is about living out Christ in practical ways, through the monotonous, humdrum of life. It is taking evangelism, which is sharing the ‘good news,’ and mixing it with a welcoming, caring, loving, and safe environment, which we might call ‘hospitality.’

So maybe the next time you are wanting to extend evangitality to someone you know needs to hear this, may I suggest you bring these scones with you, because I’m pretty sure that helps build an instant bridge.

Banana Macadamia Praline Scones (printable version)

These scones were adapted from my Simply Scones book. Instead of using 100% all-purpose flour, I split it in half using whole wheat pastry flour as well. If you love banana bread, then these scones will hit that “curl up on the couch-with a cup of coffee-sitting in your pajamas” spot.

Ingredients:

¼ cup granulated sugar
2 Tb brandy or water
¾ cup lightly salted macadamia nuts
1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 ¼ cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
2 ½ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp salt
1/3 cup unsalted butter, chilled
1 cup mashed ripe banana (2 large bananas)
2 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp turbinado sugar for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 375. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Lightly oil a 10-inch diameter circle on a baking sheet or put down a silipat. In a small heavy saucepan, stir together the granulated sugar and brandy (or water). Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cook without stirring for 4 minutes, or until the mixture turns amber and caramelizes. Immediately stir in the macadamia nuts and stir to coat the nuts with the syrup. Immediately scrape the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet or silipat. Cool for 20 minutes or until hardened. Transfer the mixture to a cutting board and chop the praline.

In a large bowl, stir the flour, brown sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut the butter into ½-inch cubes and distribute them over the flour mixture. With a pastry blender or two knives used scissors fashion, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, stir together the bananas, eggs, and vanilla. Add the banana mixture to the flour mixture and stir to combine. The dough will be sticky. Stir in praline.

Take the dough and drop it on the parchment lined baking sheet (about baseball size). Sprinkle with the turbinado sugar and bake for 25-30 minutes. Once you start smelling the wonder that comes from banana bread take it out and set it on a cooling rack. Serve warm and be careful to not eat all of them too quickly.

Makes about 8 scones

Grapefruit Yogurt Loaf Cake

My freshman year of college I lived with my brother in a ghetto house, which happened to be in a sketchy neighborhood. It was also the year I was carjacked (whole other story) a block from where we lived. Although the house was small and a bit run down, it had about 12 redeeming qualities, which came in the form of lemon, orange & grapefruit trees. I would go out and pick lemons, slice them up and dip them in sugar. If I was feeling saucy, then I would sprinkle salt on them instead. Let’s just say I was in no danger of getting scurvy that year.

There were at least four grapefruit trees, producing big O.T.L. (Over The Line is a game in AZ, but I’ve never seen it anywhere else and the ball is about double the size of a softball) ball size grapefruit. Unfortunately, I never cared for grapefruit much. I wasn’t going to be cutting it in half and sprinkling it with sugar for a perfect morning breakfast like some. I ended up giving most of them away. It’s only now, about 12 years later, that I have really come to appreciate grapefruit juice with seltzer.

So, as I had this lonely grapefruit on my counter from our bi-weekly produce delivery, I wondered how I could make it into a dessert. After looking at Barefoot Contessa at Home cookbook, I came across the Lemon Yogurt Cake recipe I had made a while back. And this is what I came up with to share with my friends and Ben’s co-workers. It isn’t overly strong like a lemon cake would be, but it’s nice & subtle. And it seemed to suit this Spring in January we’ve been experiencing this week.

Grapefruit Yogurt Loaf Cake (printable recipe)

This recipe is adapted from Barefoot Contessa at Home cookbook. It is a lemon yogurt cake using all whole-milk yogurt and more sugar in the cake part, while using less simple syrup for the cake. However, since grapefruit flavor is not as strong as lemon flavor, I found using 2/3 cup of grapefruit juice & 2/3 cup sugar was more adequate to give it that grapefruit flavor. Notes are in italics within the directions

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup plain whole fat greek yogurt
1/2 cup non-fat yogurt
1 1/3 cups sugar, divided
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons grated grapefruit zest (1 grapefruit)
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the glaze:

1 cup confectioners’ sugar
2-3 tablespoons freshly squeezed grapefruit juice

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease an 8 1/2 by 4 1/4 by 2 1/2-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper. Grease and flour the pan (I used a stoneware loaf pan and didn’t grease & flour after using the parchment and it worked fine)

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt into 1 bowl. In another bowl, whisk together both yogurts, 2/3 cup sugar, the eggs, grapefruit zest, and vanilla. Slowly whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. With a rubber spatula, fold the vegetable oil into the batter, making sure it’s all incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 50 minutes, or until a cake tester placed in the center of the loaf comes out clean.

Meanwhile, cook the 2/3 cup grapefruit juice and remaining 2/3 cup sugar in a small pan until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is clear. Set aside.

When the cake is done, allow it to cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Carefully place on a baking rack over a sheet pan. While the cake is still warm, pour the grapefruit-sugar mixture over the cake and allow it to soak in. (You will most likely need to do this in batches allowing the cake to absorb the syrup. I poured the syrup on the top and turned it to its side to pour syrup on the sides, in order to really get the juice flavor into the cake.) Cool.

For the glaze, combine the confectioners’ sugar and grapefruit juice (I only used one grapefruit, which measured barely above 2/3 cup of juice. I used some of the juice syrup to the confectioner’s sugar to make the glaze thin enough) and pour over the cake.

Spicy Caramel Popcorn

This morning I made this wonderful Grapefruit Yogurt Loaf Cake, but I decided I would share with you this Spicy Caramel Popcorn recipe instead and save the cake for a later post. I made this for our small group, because it was quick, easy & I figured people could munch on however much they wanted to fill their hand (or hands) with.

When it comes to popcorn, I feel like I could call my mom the Popcorn Queen. Growing up we never had microwave popcorn in the house or a popcorn air popper. I always felt a little deprived not having the microwave hydrogenated oil goodness that most families produced out of their pantry. And thinking, “c’mon mom, can’t we be like normal families and get the popcorn out of a box–we’re the weird family!” But, secretly, I was glad to know my mom didn’t have to rely on Orville to get us through a movie night, because she knew how to add just the right salt/butter/popcorn ratio to the pot. And as we heard what sounded like BB’s pellet against the metal, we instinctively pulled out the yellow/orange rubbermaid bowl designated “the popcorn bowl” (or occasionally my handmade ice rink for my Barbie’s).

If you’re in the mood for sweet & salty, then try this one. There is a bit of a spicy overtone, but nothing that makes your mouth water. It’s also perfect for packaging up for gifts, but be sure to grab a handful or two for yourself.

Spicy Caramel Popcorn (printable recipe)

This recipe comes from The Craft of Baking, which I checked out from the library. I’ve really enjoyed this cookbook as the author encourages you to build from the recipes she gives and making them your own. After originally posting this recipe, my friend emailed with a question about the high heat to make the caramel and having a problem with it boiling over. See my notes at the end of the recipe.
Makes about 4 quarts

Nonstick cooking spray

3 Tb vegetable oil

½ cup popcorn kernels

1 ½ tsp baking soda

¾ tsp cayenne pepper

3 cups sugar

3 Tb unsalted butter

1 ½ Tb kosher salt

Lightly coat two large heatproof rubber spatulas and a large mixing bowl with nonstick cooking spray.

In a large saucepan or pot with a lid, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the popcorn kernels, cover, and keep the saucepan moving until all of the kernels have popped, about 4 minutes. Transfer the popped popcorn to the prepared bowl, removing any unpopped kernels.

In a small bowl, whisk together the baking soda and cayenne pepper.

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, butter, salt, and ½ cup water. Cook over high heat, without stirring, until the mixture becomes a light golden-yellow caramel, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and carefully whisk in the baking soda mixture (the mixture will bubble up).

Immediately pour the caramel mixture over the popcorn. Working quickly and carefully, use the prepared spatulas to toss the caramel and popcorn together, as if you were tossing a salad, until the popcorn is well coated.

Pour the popcorn onto a large baking pan and quickly flatten and separate it into small pieces while it is still warm. Cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes. Once it is cool, store it in a well-sealed airtight container.

Caramel popcorn will keep in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

My Notes:

When making the caramel, the recipe says to not stir while having it on high heat. It is important not to stir caramel, in order to allow the sugar to “caramelize.” The sugar is going through stages and each of those stages cooks the sugar into a deeper color and deeper flavor.
However, if you do not have a heavy bottom pot, you may encounter burning much too quickly, boiling over, or cooking much too quickly before you hit the 10 minute time given.
The 10 minutes is a guideline, so pay more attention to color versus the clock.
It’s okay to swirl the pan. This will distribute the color, keep the sugar from burning, and help you see what the true color of the sugar really is.