Kitchen Tips & Techniques – Backdoor Hospitality

Day 12: More on Menu Planning

Do you know why I have never written on menu planning here? It’s because I don’t think in all the years I’ve been married (10 years) I have actually followed a menu plan. I think it’s pride. And then, evaluating my food budget I’m served a piece of humble pie. The fact of theContinue reading “Day 12: More on Menu Planning”

Day 5: How to Make Homemade Almond Milk

Truth be told, I still purchase cow’s milk for my daughters (gasp I know). I also on occasion drink it myself in the form of a latte, which honestly is quite rare as I prefer an Americano or regular coffee over many special drinks. A couple months back I was having some away timeContinue reading “Day 5: How to Make Homemade Almond Milk”

Make Your Own Vanilla Salt

I’ve been going through my plethora supply of vanilla beans (great deal through Azure Standard), in order to make Christmas gifts. After pinning multiple felt & sewing projects on Pinterest, reality set in, “This is not the time to start something new. Do what you know & love.” I know & love food.Continue reading “Make Your Own Vanilla Salt”

Meaty Spaghetti Sauce on Spaghetti Squash

One of my favorite meals growing up was spaghetti. And I can see why my mom made it fairly often. It was quick, relatively easy and no one complained. Sometimes when money was tight, she might buy that really horrible powdered spaghetti sauce mix (I believe it’s in between the taco seasoning and biscuits & gravy powdered mixes). Talk about disappointment. You walk into the kitchen to find noodles boiling in water, spaghetti sauce on another burner and soon it would dinner paradise. Only to realize that my mom was trying to use chopped up olives & mushrooms to mask the taste of astronaut spaghetti sauce.

To give my mom credit, she did make a killer lasagna (thanks mom). And she wasn’t a ‘horrible’ cook or anything, it’s just that I may have branched out a bit more (does anyone else find it interesting that spices were a novelty in the 80s home?). Well, this Spaghetti Meat Sauce is good. And when I say meat sauce, I mean, MEAT SAUCE. I’m not talking about skimpy amounts of beef where the ratio between tomato sauce & meat is more like a “flavored” meat sauce. I’m not talking about Ragu. I’m talking about meat being the main ingredient. At the end of this meal you won’t find yourself saying, “Where’s the beef?” The 80s is gone my friends, so retire your lemon pepper, Lawry’s Seasoned Salt, dressing in a bottle for Iceburg lettuce salad (in case you still have it in your cupboard). Enjoy the first time ever–picture tutorial!

Clean Spaghetti Squash pricked with a fork all over–ready for destination oven.

Cooked for an hour in the oven at 350. Sliced in half, remove the seeds, and scrap with a fork to produce "noodles."

Meet the carrots, no need to peel.

Yes blurry, but do you see my fingers curved inward–do this!

Using the curved fingers to hold the carrot (above pic) and holding the knife with the other hand. Thinly slice off a side, turn it over to slice another. Until all sides are sliced.

Until it looks similar to a Lincoln Log.

Now cut them into four smaller logs, like so.

Get them lined up, ready for a small dice.

They should look something like this, but no one will judge if they're not.

Oh those cute little diced carrots.

Celery. Start the cut here and keep rocking it to get more julienne-like cuts. Then small dice.

Meet Mr. Onion who will only make you cry.

Once again, pay attention to finger positioning to avoid chopping your finger off. Cut off the top portion, not the scraggly root portion.

After slicing it in half and keeping the root intact. Put one hand on top.

With the edge of the chef knife, begin to make a slice at the bottom of the onion. Use your hand on top to help it through if need be.

As you can see, I've created three slices, which will give me four layers. And notice the knife has not come in contact with the root.

Here's a front shot of the sliced onion, now for the vertical slices.

Vertical slices. Use the tip of your chef knife to do this.

Now it's time to cut it into a small dice.

I poured about 2 Tb olive oil in my dutch oven over medium heat. After heated a bit, I added the mirepoix.

Skipped a couple steps, but do you blame me–I was hungry.

Dinner is served.

A Year Ago: Roasting a Chicken or Cleaning the Carpet

Meat Sauce with Spaghetti Squash (printable recipe)

I’m a big fan of meat sauce, not so much meatballs, but give me meat sauce and I’m a happy woman. However, I rarely make it for my family, because of the pasta noodles. This is a perfect little compromise in my book and my girls don’t care anyway, because they’ll eat just the meat sauce (my kind of girls).

Ingredients:

1 spaghetti squash

2 Tb extra virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, small dice
2 carrots, small dice
1 celery stick, small dice
1 tsp sea salt
2 cloves garlic, finely diced
2 Tb tomato paste
3 sun-dried tomatoes, chopped up small (not oil packed)
1 lb grass-fed hamburger beef
1 lb pastured pork sausage (no flavoring, but you could if you want)
2 cans (14 oz ea) diced tomatoes
2 (more) Tb tomato paste
2 tsp dried oregano
1 bay leaf
salt & pepper to taste

Directions: Preheat oven to 350. Once it’s heated, place a sheet of aluminum foil on the middle rack and place your cleaned spaghetti squash on top. Bake for 1 hour.

Mirepoix: There are two types of mirepoix’s. The one I’m using is the traditional mirepoix, which is simply a mixture of diced carrots, onions, & celery. I am choosing extra virgin olive oil instead of butter to cook it. Do a small dice on each of the vegetables. Add the olive oil to your heavy duty pot and turn heat to medium. Give it a minute to heat up, then add the vegetables. Stirring and avoid burning or adding color at all to your onions. After it’s been cooking for 1 minute or so, add the salt. Stir and cook for an additional 4 minutes, or till the onions are soft.

Add the finely diced garlic to the mirepoix and stir constantly for 30 seconds. Now add the first round of 2 Tb tomato paste. Mix completely with the mirepoix and cook for 1 minute. Add the chopped up sun dried tomatoes. Stir an additional 20 seconds. Now add both meats. Stir the mirepoix/tomato mixture all into the meats, until thoroughly incorporated. Stir occasionally to evenly cook the meat. Once the meat is mostly cooked (small to little traces of pink left), add the diced tomatoes and stir around. Turn the heat to low/simmer.

Add the bay leaf. Place the oregano in your hand and grind it up in your hand to release the oils in it. Now add it to the pot. Add the remainder 2 Tb tomato paste & stir around. Cover and allow to simmer for anywhere between 20 minutes to 1 hour. If you have it on simmer for longer than 30 minutes, check on it periodically and stir. Season with salt & pepper before serving.

Your squash should be able to be sliced without any give. Scoop out the seeds. Get a medium bowl ready. With a fork, scrap the squash and you will begin to see it turn into miniature spaghetti “noodles.” Put the spaghetti squash into the bowl. Serve the squash and top with your meat sauce.

Serves: 8-10

Roasted Chicken

This morning marks the beginning of week three of Lean & Green Challenge (via Jogo Crossfit Gym). I must report that the lady writing on Paleo day two is quite different from the one writing in front of the computer today. There are some areas that are still the same. For instance, walking into the grocery store and seeing the lovely pastry bat it’s eyelashes at me is a bit tempting. However, what’s most noticeable is my overall health. It’s not just physical energy, but mental energy. So when you hear that phrase, “you are what you eat;” well, I think there’s something to it. My mental state seems to be at its peak. I don’t want to attribute it all to how I’m eating, but I truly believe what I’m putting in is making a difference to thinking more clearly.

It’s interesting when you think of the various methods people deal with stress & anxiety. There are those that I know who attempt to drown out the noises by numbing the pain with drugs. I’ve always thought, “well, at least I don’t do that,” but there is something to be said about what I have used to numb the pain. I never thought I used food as a “way out,” but on Saturday, it seemed like the advise I had given my friend of being mindful, drinking some tea, etc, didn’t cut it. As I’ve briefly mentioned before here, we’ve dealt with various difficulties with our oldest. In front of her, there are many obstacles (in terms of developmental delays) most of which, she has no idea; however, as her mama, I’m fully aware of them. On Saturday we received a letter from a visit we had with a genetic researcher/doctor. It didn’t leave me with warm fuzzies either, but more of that pit feeling. You know the pit. It appears to be an unconquerable wall standing in front of you, and if you look at this way, then that’s what it will be.

It was in that moment, as my stomach turned with that unwelcome old friend “anxiety,” that I wanted a mocha, or something sweet to deal with that moment. But alas, I knew it was my will versus the wall, and I wasn’t going to let it conquer me. It didn’t and I found that my soul needed time to be creative. To let out tears of the unknown, talk with God about it, paint (something I haven’t done in a while) and create, and I found my soul (and stomach) was the better for it. I’m learning a lot about myself (and my jeans have also noticed–in a good way). One of those things is my renewed love of cooking, while baking takes a backseat. This roasted chicken is one of them. It will definitely earn you a couple of “ooos” & “awws” in the kitchen, while not taking much time standing in the kitchen. Again, thanks for reading and sharing with me in this journey. I’m certain that I’m not the only one with that unconquerable wall staring at me, but I’m certain you too can conquer it.

A Year Ago: Traditions

Roasted Chicken (printable recipe)

I love roasted chicken, because it appears that you’ve been slaving in the kitchen much longer than you actually did. Plus, take the carcass and turn it into chicken broth.

Ingredients:

1 whole chicken
sea salt
freshly ground pepper
bundle of fresh thyme
coconut oil
3 strips quality bacon

Directions:
Preheat oven to 425. Have ready a dutch oven. Take your chicken and remove all the insides, clip any nails still attached and rinse with cool water. Pat dry the outside & inside of the bird. Be generous in sprinkling salt inside the cavity of the bird, along with ground pepper. Rub coconut oil on the outside of the bird on the breasts, along with under the breast skin. Sprinkle salt & pepper under the breast skin & on top of the breast.

Put the bundle of thyme inside the cavity. Place your whole bird in the dutch oven. By using a dutch oven, you will not have to deal with trussing the chicken. Take the wings and tuck them behind the back of the chicken. Now with a pair of kitchen shears, snip an opening on the fat portion near the birds downside (butt) on both sides, in order to tuck the drumstick ends through the holes (consult picture).

Place the three strips of bacon across the breast and put into the oven, cook for 20-25 minutes. After 20-25 minutes, remove the bacon and turn down the heat to 350. Baste the chicken. Cook for an additional 25-35 minutes, or until a meat thermometer registers 165 (poke it between the drumstick & breast).

Once it hits 165, remove from oven. If you want to make gravy using the drippings go ahead. Serve it up & enjoy. Be sure to use the carcass for some great stock.

Poached Eggs

If there was one thing I am truly proud of as a mother, it’s the basic necessity of my girls loving runny egg yolks. Before giving birth to my oldest, I was either an omelet or scrambled eggs lady. In my postpartum blur in the dreary month of January (there was ice & snow covering the ground for a whole week after V’s birth), my dear father-in-law Steve made me two over easy eggs with buttered toast. Most things are a blur from that first week (who am I kidding–first couple months), but those eggs. I never knew they could taste so good.

The whites were set, while the thick, fatty yolk burst out. I cleaned it up with the buttered toast and I have never looked back. In fact, I could never be vegan due to the egg. It’s the most rounded of nutritional value, keeps me more satisfied throughout the morning & the myth of the yolk being a bad cholesterol is probably debunked on snoops.com.

I got this book, The Good Egg by Marie Simmons in an auction last year. I love how Simmons writes about her love affair with this protein punchers. I’ve moved on to the poached egg since those postpartum days. Not only are poached eggs just as easy, they’re so versatile in how you prepare them or eat them. For breakfast, we eat them with buttered toast or make a sandwich out of them. I don’t want you to be intimidated by the process, because once you make them again and again–you’re culinary prowess will be more grand.

Poached Eggs

When making poached eggs, you will want to use the freshest eggs possible, because the egg whites won’t scatter everywhere when you slide them into the simmering water. If you don’t have the freshest eggs, then I would advise not making them. However, Simmons says you could do a “preboil” with the egg still in the shell. Bring your water to a boil and immerse the egg in the water for 8 seconds & remove. Then, proceed with poaching instructions.

Ingredients:

4 eggs

white vinegar

kosher salt

freshly cracked pepper

Directions:

Fill a deep 10-inch skillet with water. Add 1 tsp of salt and 1 Tb of white vinegar for every 2 quarts of water.
Heat the water until it starts simmering, barely.
Using cold eggs, crack one egg at a time into a small dish/bowl/plate. Gently slip into the water. Continue adding eggs clockwise, in order to remove them in the same order, along with equal cooking times.
You can adjust the temperature, in order to keep the water at a bare simmer. If the water starts to boil, then it will cause the egg whites to toughen & feather.
Cook eggs for 1 minute, then gently loosen them off the bottom of the pan. I turn my eggs in the water, but it’s a matter of preference.
Poach the eggs for 3 to 5 minutes until desired doneness.
Remove them with a slotted spoon in the order they went into the pan. Gently put them in a shallow bowl, trying to drain excess water.
Salt & pepper them. Serve with buttered toast, make eggs benedict, or in a salad.

Rhubarb-Strawberry filled Lime Cupcakes

Have you noticed how many cupcake shops have popped up in the past five years? I have loved baking ever since I was little. My true love for the art came in my first Home Economic class in sixth grade. True to any first year Home Ec. class, you learn a plethora of introductory level crafts. I still remember learning plastic canvas, where I made a tissue box cover of penguins designed for my mom, due to her love of the cute little creatures. But seriously, although my mom heaped words of praise upon my creation–do we really need tissue box covers lining the aisles of Goodwill (a lost craft that should remain lost)?

I made a pillow cover, did at home projects of our choice, created various items in the kitchen & decided that I would undertake the largest size duffle bag (think body bag) while all my peers were a bit more sensible & chose the smallest one. Little did I know that the duffle bag scenario would be a metaphor for my life.

Biting off more than I can chew. My vision of what I can accomplish and what I will actually tackle are two different notions. But in some ways, I like how this transfers to my baking. I’m all for simple desserts & baked goods; however, I plain ole’ love creating something a bit more time consuming to have a wonderful end product. Sometimes this is hard with some of my perfectionist sensitivities, because I would rather not attempt something & fail than attempt it at all.

It reminds me of the pie crust portion of Home Econonics. Mrs. Haile, my teacher, showed us how to cut the butter into the flour, add just a little ice cold water, lightly combine it, chill, roll & transfer to the pie plate. This terrified me. The idea of transferring to have it split, crack, tear or crumble did not look appealing in the slightest. And although I had Kitchenaid mixer on my wish list since 11 years old, it wasn’t until I was 20 years old that I began to overcome my fear of the pie crust and make pie after pie.

I’ve realized that baking is like that (as well as cooking). We all have flops. In fact, as I was making this recipe, I was trying to make Neoclassic Buttercream (cook the sugar, add said sugar mixture to egg yolks, mix & mix, cool, add butter). What was the end result–pieces of chewy sugar/caramel dispersed throughout a 1/2 pound of butter. Sad yes–defeated no. I will go back and tackle it again, same as the pie crust. Do I make a perfect pie crust with no flaws? No. Julia Child approached the culinary arts with embracing the flaws & going with it. That’s how I began to see the pie crust and so many other baking adventures.

But, when we do have monumental food successes–they make up for the 1/2 pound of butter that got ruined (actually–I’m going to use it for some frosting still), flavorless muffins, or burnt dinner. So, as with the advent of the cupcake shops, culinary triumphs & 2+hours of baking with a 5 second eating party–meet the cupcake who will convert even the die hard chocolate lover.

I am utterly, head over heals, infatuated-crazy about these cupcakes. The melding of the lime cupcake with the tang of the rhubarb sauce, sweetness of the strawberry puree and creamy, richness of the cream cheese frosting (laced with strawberry puree) makes for a complete flavor profile in a dessert. I’m not fond of using the word “best” when talking about food on a blog. However, I’m about to break that vow right now as these cupcakes are absolutely superb. Dare I say it, “the best.” They’re knock your socks off good. If you have time to spare–you need to make these. But, I’m warning you if you do, you might not ever be able to eat a “so-so” cupcake again. Just saying:)

Rhubarb-Strawberry Filled Lime Cupcake & Strawberry Cream Cheese Frosting (printable recipe)

The cupcake has been changed from a cupcake base found in Rose’s Heavenly Cakes Cookbook, which is a white cupcake & I have changed it to a lime cupcake. If you don’t have a scale, then I would highly recommend investing in one; as it will make your baked items a step up. I used cake flour, as it has a lower protein content versus all-purpose. This being said, you can use all-purpose with the amount in parenthesis below. You can make the cupcake the day before and assemble them the next day. More information on rhubarb is found here.

Lime Cupcakes

The total capacity of the liquid should measure 2/3 cup. Measure the milk to 1/2 cup and the rest should be lime juice.

3 large egg whites (90 grams), room temperature
1/2 cup (120 grams) whole milk
a little less than 1/4 cup (40 grams) lime juice, 2 limes
1 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract
2 cups (1 3/4 cup if using unbleached all-purpose flour) sifted into the cup & leveled off (200 grams) cake flour
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
1 to 1 1/2 Tb lime zest, zest of 2 limes
2 1/4 plus 1/8 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp kosher salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter (65 to 75 degrees)

Preheat the oven: Line 14 to 16 cupcake liners in a muffin tin and set aside. Preheat oven to 350.

Mix the liquids: In a small bowl, whisk the egg whites, 3 tablespoons of the milk and vanilla until lightly combined.

Make the batter: In a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, lime zest, and salt on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the butter and the remaining milk & lime juice on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Starting on medium-low speed, gradually add the egg mixture in two parts, beating on medium speed for 30 seconds after each addition to incorporate the ingredients & strengthen the structure. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Scoop batter into the lined muffin tin (it should weigh about 1.7 ounces/50 grams) filling about 3/4 full. Smooth the surface evenly with a small metal spatula.

Bake the cupcakes: Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean and the cupcakes spring back when pressed lightly in the centers.

Cool the cupcakes: Let the cupcakes cool in the pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove them from the pans and set them on a wire rack. Cool completely.

Rhubarb Sauce

2 cups rhubarb, 1/4 inch slices
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup turbinado sugar

Directions: Throw the chopped rhubarb, water & sugar in a small pot over medium heat. Stir every now & again. Allow it to cook down until it resembles chunky applesauce (except rhubarb). Pour into a bowl and set aside.

Strawberry Puree

2/3 cup hulled strawberries, cleaned

Put the hulled strawberries into a food processor and puree until no more chunks appear. Pour into a bowl and set aside.

Strawberry Cream Cheese Frosting

4 ounces cream cheese
2 Tb unsalted butter
2 cups powdered sugar
2 Tb strawberry puree

Side note: I process the butter & cream cheese in a food processor, until thoroughly combined. Then, I added 1 cup of powdered sugar along with the strawberry puree and processed again (10 seconds). I ended up putting it all in the stand mixer, added one more cup of powdered sugar & mixed on medium speed, until it was all combined.

Put the butter & cream cheese in an electric mixer medium speed for 1 minute. Add strawberry puree and mix on medium until blended. Add one cup powdered sugar & mix for 30 seconds. Add an additional 3/4 cup to 1 cup of powdered sugar. The frosting shouldn’t be too thick, but not ultra runny.

Assemble the Cupcakes:

Take the cupcake and cut out a cone from the center of each. Go here for instructions on this method.
Remove the cone & cut off the bottom half (the pointed end) and save the top half (eat the bottom half).
Put 1 teaspoon of rhubarb sauce in the cut out portion of the cupcake. Put 1/8-1/4 tsp of strawberry puree on top of rhubarb sauce.
Place the top part of the cone back on top of the sauce & puree. Press down gently, just enough to avoid the filling coming out.
Either pipe the frosting on top to cover the cut out area or spoon it on top.
Eat!!!

Chocolate Chip Cookie Olympics

I remember sitting on my parents bed watching the opening ceremony of the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona, Spain. I was eager in anticipation to watch the Women’s (really girls) gymnastic team. I would study their moves, watch with my jaw dropping at Dominque Dawes floor performance and wonder why my mom didn’t enlist me on my path toward gold medaldom (copyright Kamille) at age 2. However, once it hit the Atlanta Olympics, where the US Women clinched the gold title with Kerri Strug’s renowned performance on the vault, my interest in the Olympics had hit a standstill. Not only have they hit a standstill, but a divorce of the relationship. As I sat around a table of friends discussing how they couldn’t get enough of the Winter Olympics in Vancouver and how they’re a bit sleep deprived as a result, I hated to respond, because I was afraid of the obvious scorn. I piped in a bit sheepishly, “Yeah, well, I haven’t watched one ounce of Olympic coverage this year.” Looks were given. Them trying to be courteous without telling me of my ignorance.

So there you have it. I’m not an Olympic watcher. It honestly doesn’t interest me that much anymore. I understand why people get all excited about it (the various cultures & people represented, the nostalgia, etc, etc); but, really, it’s something I’m not crazy about. Instead, I have spent the past two days preparing for what I call the Chocolate Chip Cookie Olympics. Now this is something I get excited about. A chocolate chip cookie can bring people together or tear them apart. You understand. You walk into a coffee shop and they have those big chocolate chip cookies in the big glass container and you pause. You really want to eat one, but you wonder if they meet the criteria. You could possibly end up hashing out $1.50 – 2.00 on a waste of your daily caloric intake. I would wager to say that there is nothing quite as disappointing as biting into what looks like the promise land flowing of chocolate chips & butter to find a C.C.C. disguised as a dry sand-like substance floating around your mouth. We’ve all been there. So I set out to make three different chocolate chip cookie recipes, where I would present them to my tasters and they would judge & award gold, silver, & bronze.

Superlative Chocolate Chip Cookies (Cooks Illustrated)

I first made these Superlative Chocolate Chip Cookies from Cooks Illustrated in late summer (click on the above picture and it will take you there). These cookies probably have one of the most superb flavor profiles you’ll find. I chose this recipe, because it is my favorite chocolate chip recipe. The recipe calls for chocolate chips & toasted pecans. There are chocolate chip recipes masquerading as “chocolate chip cookies,” but they’re not true to the definition. The ones that include oats, dried fruit, nut butters, coconut, etc. They’re good for sure, but for the sake of all things being equal. I was on the search of a true chocolate chip cookie, no strings attached. So for this round, I took out the toasted pecans to make it equal among the other two candidates.

The other two contestants were the classic N.Y. Times chocolate chip cookie & a recipe claimed as the best chocolate chip cookie from ‘Not Without Salt‘ blog. A word why these two were chosen. My friend Paige loves to bake equally as much and I would say enjoys food more than I do (that’s a compliment by the way). She has mentioned that these are her family’s chocolate chip cookie of choice. After I posted on the Superlative C.C.C., she commented that her & her husband Stephen still found their aged cookie to be better. I still never made them. Then, a couple days ago, a friend Julie emailed me about the best cookies she ever tasted with sea salt on top. Guess which cookie she was talking about? Yup! N.Y. Times C.C.C. So they were enlisted immediately. And the last cookie was enlisted because Ashley Rodriguez of Not Without Salt was the former Pastry Chef of Ciao Thyme in Bellingham. I trusted the head chef Matio Gillis’ opinion of Ashley, so when she said her’s were the best, I thought, “heck, I need to try them.” And so goes the C.C.C. Olympics.

I made each of the cookies warm to order, so all of the tasters ate them warm. I however, didn’t make them equal in using the same type of chocolate for each, which caused a bit of discrepancy in the final tasting (but I did take that into account for the final tallying). I will go through each cookie stating the Pros & Cons.

Cooks Illustrated Cookie

Pros: Tasters said these had the best flavor of the three. They noted, “buttery, salty, caramel & toffee, nutty…tastes like a blondie in cookie form…chewy, with crisp edges.” These cookies don’t need to sit in the fridge for 24 to 36 hours to get those flavors, like the N.Y. Times cookie. They don’t require a mixer, just a whisk.

Cons: Texture didn’t win as big on these. Although they were chewy, they lacked the combination of soft, chewy that one taster found she liked in the “Subway Chocolate Chip Cookie.” Upon sitting at room temperature, these cookies tend to dry out a bit faster. One taster said that he didn’t care for the chocolate in these cookies, compared to the N.Y.Times one. However, I did use different chocolate chips in both, so had I used the same kind, the outcome could have been different. Doesn’t make as many cookies as the other recipes.

Technique: The caramel, toffee, nutty taste comes from melting the butter and toasting it; rather, than the typical creaming method. By melting the butter, you’re taking out some of the liquid found in the solidified butter and lends to a chewier cookie. Also, by using one egg & one egg yolk, you create more chew and take away the protein found in the extra white, which cuts back the dryness factor. I chilled this dough for 12 hours in the fridge and measured all the ingredients; as well as, measuring each cookie to 3 1/2 ounces to bake.

NY Times Cookie

Pros: The tasters were unanimous about loving the texture on this cookie. As one taster mentioned sheepishly, “It tastes like, don’t judge me, but like the Subway cookies, a bit of chew, softness, chocolate chunk, and melds together well.” Another taster said, “as a chocolate chip cookie purist, this one wins for me. This is what I think of when you say Chocolate Chip Cookie.” For me, I did two tastings. One at 36 hours of aging the dough and another at 41 hours, and I would say that this cookie tasted better the second time. The first tasting I didn’t taste strong notes of toffee, caramel, or butterscotch like the article said it would have at 36 hours. However, I did taste it at the 41 hour mark. They still have softness after sitting on the counter (wrapped up) 24 hours later.

Cons: They take 36 hours in the fridge before they’re ready. And if you want more depth of flavor, leave them in there up to 72 hours (reminded me of how long a baby can stay in the womb once the mama’s water breaks–weird, huh?). The flavor wasn’t as stand out as the Cooks Illustrated.

Technique: What makes these cookies stand out is letting them sit in the fridge for up to 36 hours before baking them. And you sprinkle sea salt on top to let the flavors pop. By letting the dough age, you’re allowing the proteins in the flour meld with the butter, sugar & salt to create a broader flavor profile. You also use two different flours (cake flour & bread flour), which create a wonderful marriage in the chemistry arena of the baking process. Cake flour with low proteins doesn’t suck up liquid like bread flour; rather, cake flour’s low protein creates a softer, paler end product along with the protein creating steam with the liquids. Bread flour with it’s higher protein browns faster and sucks up the liquid. So if you only used cake flour, you would have a cakey cookie, lacking any chewiness or a bit of a crust. However, if you only used bread flour, you would end up with a very brown, crisp cookie. Hence the perfect marriage. I also used 60% & 70% cacao, along with some milk chocolate chunks in this dough.

Not Without Salt Cookie

Pros: This was the least loved. Tasters said it was fine, and a nice fall back option. The dough was a bit above average (C+). The sprinkling of sea salt added that pop flavor. I could note a bit uniqueness in the crust, which might be attributed to the use of Turbinado sugar. I had a bit of caramel tones.

Cons: Too much chocolate (the recipe called for quite a bit), lacked anything special about it. It was okay, but not the best.

Technique: I went ahead and let this one sit in the fridge for 36 hours too, but it never aged as well as the N.Y. Times cookie. If I were to make these again, I wouldn’t use as much chocolate as the recipe called for, because it ended up feeling like you were eating chocolate with some cookie, not the other way around. Sprinkling Fleur de Sal on top before baking lends something extraordinary to even the most ordinary chocolate chip doughs.

Results: The tasters were not unanimous in their decisions. One said her favorite was the Cooks Illustrated. Three other tasters said the N.Y. Times one was their favorite. And as one taster said, “Although the flavor of the C.I. cookie is superior to the N.Y. Times one, the N.Y. Times has great texture and slightly inferior flavor, but makes it a better cookie since it meets both standards–regardless if the flavor isn’t as superior.”

So if you have time on your hand (41 hours to 72 hours), make the N.Y. Times cookies. However, if you want warm cookies right now, make the Cooks Illustrated. The comparison between the two reminds me of Michael Phelp’s Miracle finish. So you be the judge and make both–let me know what you think.

Overall Scores:

Gold to N.Y. Times

Silver to Cooks Illustrated

Bronze to Not Without Salt

Update (2/28/2010): I did not use the feves talked about in the N.Y. Times recipe. Instead, I bought a pound of chocolate from Trader Joe’s (70%) and cut it into smaller chunks with a serrated knife. I did the same with some milk chocolate I have in bulk. You could use packaged chocolate chunks as well. I feel like the chocolate chip texture doesn’t hit the spot as well as chunk form.

Mascarpone Chocolate Cheesecakes

I was realizing how most of the food I post is under the dessert or baked goods category. It made me think, “Uh maybe I need to start incorporating some vegetable side dishes, meats or beans, or something aside from dessert.” But, I soon came back to Kamille reality and the truth is…I don’t enjoy cooking nearly as much as baking. It’s not that cooking isn’t fun, but it comes in waves in my house. I really do like it, but right now in the state of affairs, cooking is a job that needs to get checked off the list. Hence, resulting in mindless ‘make the doughnuts‘ fashion when it comes to cooking a meal. It’s a chore and I’m lacking creativity to put forth anything tantalizing enough to write about (I feel like I’m always making eggs as a result). Don’t worry, the pizzazz will come back soon.

However, in the meantime, I’ve been putting forth my energy into baking. Whether it’s homemade bread (a loaf is sitting on the counter right now), making healthier snacks for my family, or finally making those pecan bars I’ve been wanting to make for well over a year and a half (they required 2 lbs of pecans–you can see why I didn’t take the plunge). And as with most culinary tasks there are those which fall under the lengthy & advanced cook definition, lengthy & intermediate and easy (because anything that is lengthy almost always never falls under the easy). Although I enjoy the lengthy challenge, there are times when easy yet tasty (without anything from a box) is desperately needed. So I present you with these Mascarpone Chocolate Cheesecakes.

I think this took me a total of 50 minutes (this didn’t include the chill time in the fridge). The recipe says they should chill for 4 hours, but really, I think it’s all a matter of preference. You could just as easily let them cool to room temperature then grab a spoon, which the result would be creamy billows melting across your mouth. However, if you chill them you will get the more firm taste one is accustomed to when eating cheesecake (personally I prefer more billowy and less dense). I have also realized that what may come as second nature to me is what scares most people out of the kitchen. So let me give you some pointers on making cheesecake (and specifically these cheesecakes).

When recipes call for heating up heavy cream to which you will add chopped chocolate (which is called a ganache–it’s what is used to make truffles), you should chop it up. However, in this instance, it’s okay if the chocolate is in bigger chunks, because the chocolate to cream ratio is 4:1, so you have more time to stir the cream with chocolate, in order for the chocolate to melt.
Always cool down the chocolate mixture or any hot cream mixture when adding to eggs. That is unless you want scrambled eggs hidden within. If you don’t feel like eating breakfast with your dessert, resist the temptation thinking warm is equivalent to room temperature.
Always, Always, Always (was that enough always?) use a bain marie when making cheesecakes or baked custards. A bain marie is a hot water bath. You take your cheesecake pan or ramekins with the uncooked mixture inside and place it in a roasting pan, 9×13 pan or any pan with sides taller than the ramekins, springform, or cake pan. You will need to boil water in your kettle or get very hot water from your tap. Place your ramekins inside a rectangular pan and set it on the rack in the oven. Now gently pour the water into the rectangular pan without splashing any water on the cheesecake, until the water reaches the middle part of the outside of the ramekins.
Bain Marie: By baking your cheesecake in a bain marie, you are relying on the hot water to help with the baking process, not just the dry heat from the oven. This method will result in a creamier cheesecake and not a dry, dense one. **if you’re making a big cheesecake, you will need to wrap the bottom with heavy duty aluminum foil, so the water doesn’t seep through the springform pan.**
Never open the oven door while baking cheesecakes. Don’t be tempted to open it (I know we all think by opening it the cooking will somehow be closer to being done). By opening the door you alter the temperature, which causes those cracks in the middle of cheesecakes.
If your making a big cheesecake, and the time is done. Turn off the heat, but leave cheesecake in the oven with door closed for an additional hour.
Remove the cheesecake from the water and let it cool on a rack to room temperature.

Mascarpone Chocolate Cheesecakes (printable recipe)

This is another recipe adapted from my Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey book. If I haven’t spoken of its praises enough, then this recipe is another reason why you should stop stalling and go get it. If you’re not up for it, stick with me and I’ll most likely be pulling a few dozen more of it. What I like about these is they are less finicky than your typical cheesecake, don’t require as much cream cheese, and are individual servings. Oh yeah & they’re crustless…so gluten & wheat sensitive can indulge.

Ingredients:

1 cup heavy cream
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (see note above)
8 ounces mascarpone cheese (you can find some for a cheaper price at Trader Joe’s)
1/4 cup sugar (okay, so seriously, I don’t think this really needs sugar–I say you could do 2 Tb and be fine)
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp pure vanilla extract (At Costco they sell gluten-free pure vanilla extract for a big amount & good price)
pinch of salt
1 Tb rum, brandy or Grand Marnier (optional)
Top with whipped cream, sliced strawberries, raspberries or orange segments.
Boiling water for bain Marie

Directions:

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 325.
In a saucepan, bring the cream to a simmer over medium heat. Remove it from the heat once it starts to boil. Add the chopped chocolate and whisk till all the chocolate is melted. Let it come to room temperature.
In a medium bowl, whisk or stir together mascarpone & sugar till creamy. Add eggs one at a time, whisking after each addition until thoroughly incorporated. Add the vanilla, salt & liquor of choice.
Pour the cooled chocolate mixture into the mascarpone cheese mixture and whisk till smooth.
Put eight 4-ounce custard cups, ramekins or small ovenproof coffee cups in an empty 9×13 pan or roasting pan. Divide the cheesecake mixture evenly among the ramekins.
Put the baking dish in the oven and gently pour the hot water into the pan (see notes above on bain marie). Cover with aluminum foil.
Bake until the tops of the cheesecake appear solid but jiggle slightly when shaken, 30 minutes. The perfect consistency is soft, but not liquid. Transfer the pots from the baking sheet to a wire rack. Let them come to room temperature. Then, cover each pot with plastic wrap and place in fridge for at least 4 hours. Enjoy!

On Roasting a Pumpkin

It should be said, that rarely does anyone photograph or capture the essence of mishaps for their blog. My friend said the other day, in reference to the comparison syndrome (you know, feeling like you just don’t seem to measure up), “that’s why I don’t read other mom’s blogs too often, because they only post the wonderful things they do with their kids and it makes you feel like you’re (and I paraphrase) a Loser!” It’s very true, whether it’s a mom blog, a crafty blog, a food blog, etc, you rarely see or read the disasters.

And to let it be known, I for one am definitely not above disaster. It’s a humbling experience all the same, but it’s what I do with the flop and try to get better. That’s what I love about roasting & pureeing my own pumpkin. It falls under the “from scratch” (even more if I had a yard to grow the squash/pumpkin) category and ultimately makes the recipe taste a little better. I wanted to encourage those of you who think buying canned pumpkin is the only option to step into this safe world of roasting your own.
First things first…pick a sugar pie pumpkin or other squash variety, which suits your culinary needs. I have for years baked sweet meat squash for my “pumpkin” baking needs and never had any complaints. My friend Kelli gave me two of her pumpkins from her yard 🙂 Preheat your oven to 450.

Honestly, the most difficult step is roasting your pumpkin would be cutting the pumpkin. You really should have a sharp chef’s knife for the job. You want to cut it down in the middle, with one hand on the handle and the other hand pressing down (gently but with a bit of pressure) on the blade. Squash can be a bit sticky, leaving a residue on your hands, which acts a suction device for you knife. So again, be careful in cutting.

Scoop out all of the seeds and stingage. Place in a bowl to roast the seeds for later. Be sure you DO NOT put the insides into your garbage disposal, as it will get caught and the plumber will have to come. I speak from experience.

Place your pumpkin cut side down on a parchment lined roasting pan or jelly roll pan. Pour in some water onto the pan to aid with steam in the oven, because you really don’t want to brown the cut edges. Put in the oven and bake for 60-90 minutes, depending on the size of your pumpkin. It will be done when you can pierce through the pumpkin with a knife.

Now how it goes from solid to puree is up for discussion, but this is how I do it. Scrape the pumpkin meat out and plop it in a food processor. Don’t overload your processor, but process in batches. Process till smooth and put into containers. From here you can use the canning method or freezing method. I freeze mine, because, well…that’s just what I do. I used to use freezer ziploc bags until I found these handy plastic containers at Cash & Carry. I use the 12 ounce ones and I believe they were $2.75 for 50 of them (lids sold separately).

Hope you take advantage of pureeing your own pumpkin and squash! It’s therapeutic.